I’m in the Philippines, sitting at a six-person dining room table made of bamboo. It’s the kind of table found all across Southeast Asia, but this one is special. This one is unconvincingly strapped to the top of an old bus speeding down an unpaved highway on the island of Palawan.

Apparently, this is how one gets around, dodging wayward branches and low-hanging power lines.

Thirty minutes ago I was stranded with two friends at an intersection in the middle of nowhere. In a town somewhat humorously named Salvacion. Now we’re watching storm clouds creep across the horizon as the road unfurls before us like a roll of film over the undulating landscape.

The Philippines is a staggeringly beautiful country, still largely untouched and unrefined. And Palawan is considered its last frontier.

It’s hard to believe the island is only an hour’s flight from Manila, and ultimately just a few hours away from home in Viet Nam. It feels like another world, and entrance costs nothing more than a cheap ticket on Cebu Pacific’s new Ha Noi-Manila route.

Though our journey begins with a desire to island hop in Honda Bay’s flawless waters and visit Sabang’s famous subterranean river, we soon learn that it’s the modes of transport, the gaps between destinations that set Palawan apart.

After two brief plane rides, a hop on an inter-airport shuttle and a short tricycle ride, we arrive at St Lourdes Wharf to explore Honda Bay. We are roughly 12km from the city of Puerto Princesa, where most flights to Palawan touch down and where we’ll stay the night at the charming if rustic Casa Linda Inn (US$20).

For less than $25, we hire a pumpboat, or bangka, and are cruising on the bay by lunch time.

The roaring recycled motor chugs away. The boat driver shows a toothless smile and introduces himself as Potato. The mainland fades behind us. Islands appear.

Potato points down and through the crystal blue expanse. It’s probably 4m deep and we can see straight to the bottom, like through a rippling windowpane. Colourful coral and sea aenemones rock and sway. Pebbles roll. Basketball-sized jellyfish bloat and float.

We drop anchor off several islands. We swim through starfish and sand dollars, snorkel and wade and end the day watching the tides reconfigure Snake Island, so named for its winding, ever-changing coastline.

We sip San Miguel beers and eat grilled honey-pork.

The sky is bright and large above us. The stretching serpent-like shore slivers back and forth.

Heart of Darkness

The next morning we travel to the town of Sabang to visit the world’s longest subterranean river. It’s a bumpy three-hour ride from Puerto Princesa and one of Palawan’s most prized attractions, often dubbed a journey to the centre of the earth.

It is.

We put our bags in one of the many beachside bungalows ($15) and are on our way.

The river flows through a cave system for over 8km before dumping into the East Sea. Outside on the island, dense, mountainous forests surround the cave. The natural reserve is home to monitor lizards, monkeys and other woods-dwelling creatures. On the inside, bats and birds flutter in the darkness.

We sit aboard a small creaky vessel with helmets and lifejackets and a car battery-powered searchlight. The cave’s water is black and still and every sound echoes. There’s the faint smell of damp history and bat droppings. Structures rise and fall, and the ceiling leaks from far above.

As I sit bobbing in the opaque waters, the stillness and quiet creep strangely over me. For the thing that has struck me most about the Philippines is the open kindness and talkative nature of its people. For a country that has known occupation and violence in the not-so-distant past, Filipinos are extremely open and welcoming to foreign travellers. Their warmth is infectious.

And so perhaps it’s this contrast that makes the cave feel so much darker. The light that seems to shine on every other part of the country is obviously absent here, underground.

It seems odd that in one of the most friendly, open and beautiful countries in Southeast Asia, we’ve holed ourselves away inside a cave. As we drift further along, the darkness weighs heavily. It’s a stunning, almost meditative journey through the underground passage, but we’re thankful that it spans only a few kilometers.

On our way back out, we watch as the cave’s mouth grows larger and larger. Its giant stalactite teeth lead us back into the day.

Air between stations

And so here we are, atop an old bus, careening around curves on a gravel road heading toward El Nido on the northern tip of Palawan. Only an hour ago we were huddled sardine-like into one of the Philippines’ most treasured transportation devices, the jeepney, as we left Sabang behind. The jeepney is basically a jeep and old soup can hybrid. More carnival ride than reliable vehicle.

Along these endlessly winding roads, men, women and children strike up conversations with us. They talk about their homes and families as we sit piled and squished by one another. They’re proud of their country, and the pride is contagious.

Though we had no hard plans after Sabang, we’ve decided to spend a little more time on the island. It’s the kind of place that’s difficult to leave.

Thankfully, Thailand this is not. The bays are uncrowded and unmarred, the prices still quite reasonable. The islands belong to you and, occasionally, a mere handful of others.

At times, here, I’m struck by the oddly intimate possibility that I have found the oft-sought and elusive Away-From-It-All.

Palawan may even be able to retain this sense of idyllic isolation. No matter how relatively close it is to other Southeast Asia countries, it’s far enough away to discourage most casual wanderers. You have to want to come.

But once here, in the late afternoons when the storm clouds finally roll in, even they have thick silver linings.

Travel Tips : Make sure to bring enough cash, most establishments are not accepting credit cards

Trivia >> Shakira : the highest-selling Colombian artist of all time wants to visit Palawan

Starting at $3,745 per person (for a group of eight to ten), based on double occupancy, travelers will receive six nights of camping and four nights of resort accommodations; seven days moderate sea kayaking (some previous experience recommended), snorkeling, swimming, easy hiking and touring, as well as all meals.

Lead by expert kayaking guide and world traveler, Joe Toback, highlights of the trip include:

Busuanga Island

Spend the first night at the Busuanga Island Paradise, a small inland resort set within a private nature reserve. Enjoy amenities including comfortable air-conditioned casitas, swimming pool and Jacuzzi. Meet the trip leader and guides over welcome drinks and dinner.

Coron Island

Kayak for three days in and around Coron Island, one of the world’s great limestone islands, camping at a secluded beach on the eastern coast amidst the sounds of birds, monkeys and the starry night. Explore the spiritual hub of the local Tagbanua people, the Calamian sea gypsies who gather swallows’ nests from the island’s famous limestone caves.

Sangat Island

Arrive at Sangat Island Reserve and stay in a native-style eco-resort set near a fine white-sand beach and beautiful coral gardens ideal for snorkeling. Certified scuba divers can opt to spend the afternoon exploring some Japanese wrecks from World War II.

Pass Island Camp

Explore the town of Culion, a former leper colony, visiting its impressive museum. Snorkel at historic Dynamite Point, Calambuyan Island and the Pamilican Islands, observing fascinating sea life and exquisite beaches.

Depart Pass Island Camp, passing through pearl farms, over coral gardens and through extensive mangrove forests along Galoc Island and enjoy a beach picnic lunch surrounded by wildlife, including monkeys and monitor lizards. Time permitting, the group will stop at Coral Bay to visit “Kalipayan,” an exquisite traditional Philippine beach house.

Busuanga Island

Arrive at Black Island (named for its dark color) and spend the day exploring a cave and circumnavigating the limestone island by kayak. Enjoy a mid-afternoon paddle along Busuanga River through a diverse environment filled with nipa palm, mangroves, farmland and forests. Paddle back to the mouth of the Busuanga River to Busuanga Island for one-night resort accommodations at Rio Playa Beach Resort.

Calauit and Wildlife Sanctuary – Maquinit Hot Springs

Depart in the early morning for the Calauit Game Preserve and Wildlife Sanctuary to view native animals like the Palawan Bearcat as well as some protected African wildlife species. In the late afternoon, visit Maquinit Hot Springs to enjoy floating in the salty volcanic, salt-water springs. A farewell feast follows.

Mountain Travel Sobek is responsible for all arrangements in the field, including camp meals, group gear and kayaking equipment; airport transfers; ground transportation; and basic medical and evacuation insurance.

“While unspoiled wilderness is at the heart of most Philippines’ vacations, this special tour from Mountain Travel Sobek is so ‘off the beaten path,’ one needs a kayak to transverse it,” said Rene de los Santos, Director of the Philippines Department of Tourism in San Francisco.

Starting at $3,745 per person (for a group of eight to ten) based on double occupancy, the Kayaking the Calamian Archipelago is avalible for travel April 6 and April 20, 2008.

For more information or to book Kayaking the Calamian Archipelago, contact Mountain Travel Sobek at 888-MTSOBEK (687-6235), e-mail info@mtsobek.com or visit www.mtsobek.com

For more information on the Philippines, visit www.experiencephilippines.ph  or contact the Philippine Department of Tourism in San Francisco at 415-956-4060; Los Angeles at 213-487-4525; New York at 212-575-7915 or Chicago at 312-782-2475.

Philippine Department of Tourism

The Philippine Department of Tourism (PDOT) is one of the Executive Departments of the Government of the Republic of the Philippines responsible for the promotion of travel to the Philippines, tourism investments, and enhancement and preservation of tourism products in the country. Field offices in New York, Los Angeles, Chicago and San Francisco provide the following services free of charge on a selective basis: dissemination of tourism information, maps, brochures and posters; lending out of videos, CDs and other tourism-related materials; recommendations on places to visit; endorsement of relevant entities; and assistance to those traveling to the Philippines. These offices also engage in a number of promotional activities: presentations to travel organizations, travel trade shows, media inserts and joint marketing arrangements.

The Philippine Department of Tourism is headquartered in Manila, Philippines, with offices in New York, Chicago, San Francisco and Los Angeles. For more information, visit www.experiencephilippines.ph or www.wowphilippines.com.ph

Kahn Travel Communications (KTC) is the appointed publicist for the Philippine Department of Tourism, covering North America. Media may contact KTC at (516) 594-4100, or via e-mail at j.kahn@ktcpr.com

Conde Nast Traveler, the largest circulated and most popular travel magazine in the United States voted Palawan as a tourist destination with the Best Beaches Overall in Asia in its October 2007 issue. Palawan has been cited for its outstanding attractions like Tubbataha Reef Marine Park and St. Paul Subterranean River National Park, both listed under the UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites.

The reputable publication noted that Palawan Province’s 1,200 miles of sugary beaches wrapped around 1,780 pristine islands have attracted travelers since the Chinese traders crossed now sunken land bridges from Borneo. Tubbataha is a reef ecosystem made up of two atolls that lie on a line of extint underwater volcanoes and is a sanctuary for marine life. Located 92 nautical miles southeast of Puerto Princesa City in Palawan, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its outstanding universal value in terms of marine life species diversity and richness.

The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River, otherwise known as the St. Paul Underground River, features a spectacular limestone landscape with an underground river. The area represents a significant habitat for biodiversity conservation as the site contains a full ‘mountain-to-sea’ ecosystem and has some of the most important forests in Asia.

Almost as unique as these two Heritage Sites is Miniloc Island Resort; where a private beach leads to crystalline waters rife with damselfish. Sister property of Miniloc is Lagen Island Resort; whose 51 over-water pavilions are indeed one-of-a-kind. Amanpulo, Amanresorts’ 40 huts scattered along Pamalican Island’s powdery strand is indeed world-class. It was also included in the best hotels category of Conde Nast magazine.

Wherever in the Philippines’ 7,107 Islands; more particularly in Palawan, dubbed as the country’s Last Frontier, there will definitely be beaches reflective of sheer heaven. As in this province alone, anyone will almost surely fall in love with one of the 1,780 mostly uninhabited islands that constitute this wealth of wonder which is beyond the usual. It was definitely enough for Conde Nast Traveler’s October issue of The Great Asian Beach Finder to position Palawan as the Best Beach Overall.

For more information on Miniloc Island Resort and Lagen Island Resort, please visit www.elnidoresorts.com. For information on Amanpulo, please visit www.amanresorts.com. For more of the best beaches overall, please visit www.cntraveler.com .

Mountain Travel Sobek and Wilderness Travel are considered pioneers in offering adventure travel packages anywhere around the world, which range from hiking and camping expeditions to photography sessions in wildlife areas. Both operators are in the top five of Travel & Leisure Magazine’s best adventure tour companies of 2007.

In its web page on the Calamian kayaking trip, Mountain Travel Sobek invites potential tourists to “discover spectacular tropical wilderness scenery, wild primary rainforest, secluded sandy coves, and golden, empty beaches, all while experiencing perfect paddling conditions in crystal-clear turquoise waters and unparalleled snorkeling in coral gardens.” The excursion takes 11 days and costs around US$ 4,500 per person.

Wilderness Travel includes snorkeling in Palawan under its WT Exploratory Expeditions for 2008. Destinations in this particular offering are considered the favorite places of the company’s expert trip leaders who designed the itineraries with the adventurous soul in mind.

A balanced ecological system and preserved natural resources are Palawan’s main attractions. The province’s lush forest cover –one of the largest in the country, and the diverse and colorful marine life make for an ideal background for adventure.

Called the last frontier by the renowned French explorer and marine researcher Jacques Cousteau, Palawan is further the stage for the latest season of popular European reality adventure show Les Aventuriers de Koh-Lanta.

Koh-Lanta Palawan is the seventh installment of the French version of the famous American Survivor series. The 10 episodes were shot entirely in El Nido early this year and are currently being aired in France until the season ends in September 2007. The weekly show reaches over seven million viewers in France, Belgium, Switzerland and North Africa.

With the province’s growing popularity as an alternative travel destination, the DOT looks forward to a more diverse foreign tourist population entering the country in the near future. Over 1.5 million visitors landed on Philippine shores for the first half of 2007, with the United States, Korea and Japan as the top three source countries.

Set on its own private island of Pamalican in the Philippines, Amanpulo is surrounded by white-sand beaches, crystal-clear aquamarine waters and a coral reef only 300 metres from shore.

Guests are met at Manila’s Ninoy Aquino International Airport and transferred to the Amanpulo lounge. Refreshments and reading materials are available during the transit. The scenic one-hour flight takes guests 360km south-west to the private island of Pamalican, landing on Amanpulo’s own airstrip.

Amanpulo is an island haven offering a wide range of water sports including diving, snorkelling, game fishing, sailing, water-skiing, windsurfing and island-hopping. Nature walks, star gazing and tennis are also available. Based on the traditional Philippine bahay kubo or native dwelling, Amanpulo’s 40 casitas are located in various settings – by the white-sand beach, amongst the treetops in the tropical foliage or perched on the hillside overlooking the Sulu Sea.

Having taken his post graduate in yoga psychology at the Bihar School of Yoga in India, Nitesh’s sessions will focus on strengthening the body and increasing flexibility in combination with meditation to clear the mind. Guests may enjoy daily complimentary yoga sessions at 7am at the Picnic Retreat or arrange for private classes with Nitesh.

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