Paete : Home of Best Wood Carvings and Papier Mache

It was not a busy weekend so i decided to go to Baclaran to visit the church and to take some photos of this busy “baratillo district” but when i passed by Buendia, I suddenly changed my mind and decided to go to the bus terminal. I found myself sitting inside an airconditioned bus bound to Sta. Cruz, Laguna without any clear directions where to go and what to do. Dont ask me why, I just feel to have an adventure journey; a la Amazing Race. After almost two and a half bus ride to Sta. Cruz, I decided to visit Paete, a small town which is well known for its artistic wood crafts and paper maches products.

Upon arrival in Paete, I was impressed with the cleanliness of this town. The poblacion has narrow streets and you can walk around the town to check for pasalubong, wood carvings and papier mache shops. Aside for wood carvings, you can also find a complete range of business establishments from hardware, food shops and of course famous Pinoy Sari-sari stores.

Walking around this uber small town with a Camera is a must but as a courtesy, always ask permission if you will be taking photos of an artwork or the artist itself. This town has a different characteristic. People are more than willing to answer any of your questions especially if you are a tourist. Paete is well known for it’s worldclass woodcarvers, artistic wood carvings and papier mache artworks. Popular papier mache products are Maskaras, animal replicas and statues.

Paete Church

The first church was built in the year 1646 by Paete natives under the supervision of Fr. Andres de Puertellano. In 1717, a new church was erected. It was made of adobe bricks and a mixture of egg white and other native materials to “cement” them. The building was constructed in elaborate baroque style with an infusion of oriental artistry. The intricate retablo pieces were made by Paetenian natives, among them were Bartolome Palatino and Francisco Macahumpan. The large paintings inside the church were executed by another notable son of Paete, Luciano Dans–these are the Langit, Lupa, Impiyerno (Heaven, Earth, Hell), and the large murals of St. Christopher. The church with all its ornate designs and architecture was completed in 1840.

It sustained major damages in the earthquakes of 1884 and 1937. The only recorded history during this time was written under the auspices of the Spanish Roman Catholic Church. Therefore, all the credits for the church construction and reconstruction are heaped on the “men of the cloth” and made no mention of names of native Paetenians.

About Paete Laguna

Paete is a 4th-class urban municipality in the province of Laguna, Philippines.The 2000 census registers the town with a population of 23,011 in 5,101 households.

Paete (pronounced PÄ«-té, long i, short guttural ê) is a lakeside town located at the northeastern part of Laguna, along the shores of picturesque Laguna de Bay. It was founded in 1580 by Spanish friars Juan de Placencia and Diego de Oropesa of the Franciscan Order. It is believed that the earliest inhabitants were of Malay lineage, coming all the way from Borneo in their swift and sturdy boats called “Balangay”. The town is made famous by craftsmen highly skilled in woodcarving and its embellishment.

Paete has come a long way from what Jose Rizal describes as that town from whose “carpenter shops” were issued images “even those more rudely carved” (chapter VI, Noli me Tangere ). Even now, its inhabitants (called Paeteňos or Paetenians) continue with their centuries-old tradition in carving and painting. Rizal would feel proud of the town’s masterpieces, evident in statues, pulpits, murals and bas relief found in churches, palaces and museums all over the world–among them the St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, New York, the Mission Dolorosa in San Francisco, the San Cayetano Church in Mexico, the St. Joseph’s shrine in Sta. Cruz, California, various churches in the Philippines and the Ayala Museum in Makati, Philippines. The official town hero is not a statesman nor a soldier but a woodcarver, the master artisan Mariano Madriñan, whose obra maestra, the life-like Mater Dolorosa, was honored by the King of Spain with a prestigious award in Amsterdam in 1882. The town was proclaimed “the Carving Capital of the Philippines” in March 15, 2005 by Philippine President Arroyo. It is also believed that the modern yo-yo, which originated in the Philippines, was invented in Paete.

History of Paete

Before the Spaniards came, Paete was said to be a peaceful barangay under Gat Lacampauid. The Spanish friars had a tradition of naming towns they built in honor of saints. Paete was an exception. Legend has it that there was once a young Franciscan priest who was tasked by his superior to visit their newly-founded settlements alongside Laguna de Bay. The priest knew little about the terrain so he asked a native the name of the place. The latter misinterpreted the young friar, thinking that the former wanted to know the name of the tool he was using. He answered, Paét (chisel) –thus, the name Paete.

Today many descendants of these skillful artisans have found a niche in the culinary world–ice sculpture, fruit and vegetable carvings done by dexterous hands of Paeteños abound on buffet tables of cruise ships and world-class hotels and restaurants.

Getting There

From Manila : Take airconditioned bus to Sta. Cruz Laguna (Bus Terminals are located in Gil Puyat Avenue, formerly Buendia)

From Sta. Cruz Laguna : Take regular passenger Jeepney to Paete

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